KŌJI KIN 糀菌.

Manuscript on paper, entitled on upper cover: “Kōjimuroshi kisokuchō” 糀室師規則帳 [“Rules of the Masters of the Kōji-Making Room”].

57 folding leaves. Large 8vo (310 x 210 mm.), orig. wrappers, orig. stitching with thick cord. Miyagi Prefecture: 1871-96.

Kōji kin is the culinary culture Aspergillus oryzae, most commonly used in steamed rice, barley, and soybeans; it is the foundational backbone of traditional Japanese cuisine, used in making soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin, and amazake. Kōjimuro 糀室 is the heated damp room where kōji kin is propagated onto steamed rice, grains, and beans to encourage fermentation.

Our manuscript describes the turmoil experienced by the heavily regulated kōji kin manufacturing businesses in the early Meiji era. Changes in taxation and industrialization of the process caused many smaller producers to go out of business. A regional association of kōji kin makers in Miyagi Prefecture prepared our manuscript for submission to provincial government officials, recording the many producers who had temporarily or permanently halted production. From the manuscript we learn that many of the kōji kin makers produced several grades for different purposes, using white rice of various qualities, brown rice, and different grains and beans. The by-laws of the association are given at the beginning of the manuscript along with the names of the officials, including Hatanaka Hikoshichi 畑中彦七 and Satō Chōzaemon 佐藤長左衛門. Prices of the various products are given.