MASAKI, Masamoto 正木政幹.

Kenpu saiyō 絹布裁要 [Silk Cutting & Sewing].

Numerous woodcuts throughout. 55 folding leaves. Tall narrow agenda format (223 x 76 mm.), orig. decorated wrappers, new stitching. Kyoto: Metogiya sōhachi めとぎや宗八, 1816.

Second edition; the first edition appeared in 1764. The art of cutting cloth for accuracy of fit and minimizing the amount of fabric used employs complex geometrical calculations. Efficient cutting layouts require clear markers to indicate how patterns will be placed on the fabric and skillfully cut. In Edo-era Japan, bolts of fabric (ittan 反) were standard in size: 35-40 cm. wide and 12 meters long, exactly enough for one kimono. The author explains that for special purposes, two or three bolts of fabric could be sewn together to facilitate the making of larger kimono, furushki, and other products (one bolt: hitohaba mono 一巾物, two bolts: futahaba mono 二巾物, and three bolts: mihaba mono 三巾物).

The present work, written by the wasan mathematician Masaki, illustrates these considerations in a series of extremely clear woodcuts on 51 pages. The text discusses types of fabrics, differences between men’s and women’s bodies, body sizes of individuals, and sizes for children (with techniques for cutting and sewing fabrics so the garments could be unfolded and restitched over the years, throughout the child’s growing period).

Nice copy and rare, with no copy of our edition in WorldCat. Preserved in a chitsu. With the author’s Preface, dated 1763.